For beginning retinol users, some background information
Temperatures are falling and people are using more and more products that contain active ingredients, known as Cosmeceuticals. A well-known and indispensable ingredient for skin improvement is vitamin A. Vitamin A has various forms called Retinoids, of which retinol is perhaps the best known. When applied in high concentrations and large amounts, it can cause skin irritation. Retinoids are good at stimulating healthy cell division in the epidermis and this has many positive effects. However, when skin renewal is too fast, skin irritation can occur. Retinoid irritation is called retinoid dermatitis. This causes peeling, redness and hypersensitivity of the skin when touched. These side effects usually occur 2-4 days after applying the retinoid product. When you stop using it, this reaction decreases automatically.
Stop or continue taking retinol?
But please don't let this deter you. You don't want to completely stop using a retinoid product because it has so many positive effects on improving skin. It is one of the few proven ingredients to visibly reduce the aging process and is a true multi-tasker. Indeed, research shows that vitamin A ensures: improving skin hydration, improving skin structure that smoothes fine lines and wrinkles, antioxidant protection, equalizing pigmentation, differences, and you name it! So you want to use a product with vitamin A, but in the right way and at the right dose, so that you can limit the level of irritation. So never just start with a product that contains retinol, for example, but be well informed about this. The right amount of vitamin A really varies per skin and person. That is why you should start a process with a skin therapist and be guided when such a reaction occurs.
Retinoid reaction in the winter period
But even when the skin is used to a high concentration of retinol, the skin reaction can change suddenly when the temperature drops. What exactly is that about? This has everything to do with ceramides. Ceramides form a double lipid layer between our horn cells and therefore play an important role in the skin's barrier function. They retain water (moisture balance) and prevent external factors from penetrating the skin barrier. Research shows that low levels of ceramides occur in people with eczema, atopic dermatitis and aging skin, in other words, people with a malfunctioning skin barrier. But environmental changes, such as cold weather or low humidity, can also reduce these essential lipids. Our skin reacts with a reduced production of ceramides when the outside temperature falls below 8 degrees Celsius.
Decreased ceramide production directly leads to a disruption of our natural skin barrier. The water in the skin evaporates, resulting in skin that feels dry and tight. In addition, everything you apply to the skin, such as the essential (active) ingredients in your skin care products, is absorbed uncontrollably. For example, a higher dose of vitamin A penetrates the skin, which can lead to an unwanted retinoid reaction.
Tips to get rid of a retinoid reaction quickly
Fortunately, there are various solutions to reduce the uncomfortable reactions in the winter. I've listed them below.
1.Adjust frequency
It is possible to reduce the frequency of taking Vitamin A, for example by skipping one day. This gives the skin a little more rest.
2.Adjust the dosage
Several studies show that thin lubrication is one of the fastest solutions, but it is not clear what it does to the effectiveness of the product. Logically, you can take this into account if you lubricate less or thinner, you will also have less effect from the positive effects of vitamin A.
3.Add a calming product
The solution to keep using your favorite retinoid product in the same way is to add an extra hydrating and calming product to your care routine. Please note that it is a product with a positive effect on restoring the skin barrier and not one that only covers the top layer of skin. After all, this in turn has a negative effect in the long term. So it's a very complex story to use the right products. Always be well informed about this if you are unsure whether you are using the right products.
Products with immediate calming and restorative ingredients:
-Antioxidant gel, AVST gel and Super Moisturiser by Environ
-Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 by SkinCeutics
-Hydrating Cream by ZO Skin Health
4.Make an appointment at our clinic for a calming and hydrating treatment, such as the HydraFacial Premium with the luxury booster Nassif. This booster has been specially developed to restore the hydrolipid film layer.
